eMotors.ca and author of the article below cannot in any way be held responsible nor liable for any of the content or for any use or misuse of the information provided in the article. eMotors.ca and the author of the article cannot guarantee the accuracy or correctness of the information provided in the article, therefore, the information provided by the article can only be used at your own risk.

A/C Installation -- Wiring and Refrigerant

Author : From "Weekend Mechanic" - episode WKM-211 Posted on : 16/11/2004
Model : Ford, Explorer Category : Engine - Cooling System
Source : http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_auto_air_conditioning/article/0,2021,DIY_13674_2278232,00.html
 
Control Panel and Wiring


- To gain access to the existing heater controls in the truck, a portion of the dash needs to be removed (figure A). This will allow the replacement of the decal on the control panel and the installation of the new switch (figure B).













- With the dash section removed, unbolt the control panel (figure C) and pull the unit forward, out of the hole in the dash.













- Carefully remove all of the plastic knobs on the control panel and peel off the old decal on the faceplate of the panel.

- Peel the backing off of the new label and set it in place on the faceplate (figure D).













- A release-tab at the bottom of the control panel will free the old switch from the back of the panel.

- Plug the new switch into the existing connector (figure E), and then plug the unit in at the back of the panel (figure F).













- Reinstall the knobs, and bolt the control panel back in place in the dash.

- The wiring for the a/c system (figure G) is not terribly complicated. Wiring may vary depending on your kit, so read and follow manufacturer's wiring instructions carefully.













- Following our manufacturer's instructions, a plug at one end of the wiring harness is connected to the receiver dryer (figure H).













- A black wire connects to the thermostatic switch (figure I).













- The green wire is fed into the truck's cab.

- A wire leading from the thermostatic switch is connected to the compressor clutch. This is an important connection as it allows for proper cycling of the cooling system.

- Secure any loose wires with zip-ties.

- Reconnect the negative battery cable to the terminal.

- According to our instructions, a plug with four wires leads from the cab to the engine compartment. The green a/c wire from our kit connects to the purple wire on this plug. A test-light is used in order to ensure that this wire is still functional (figure J). Since the test-light comes on when the a/c switch is turned on inside the cab, the wire is found to be OK.













- The green a/c wire is connected to the factory-installed purple wire using a crimp connection (figure K).
















Adding Refrigerant


- With the wiring complete, the a/c gauge is connected to the system (figure L). The high-side and low-side ends of the gauge are attached to the appropriate fittings according to the instructions that come with the gauge.













- The gauge's yellow hose is connected to the vacuum pump (figure M).













- With all of the connections secure, both of the gauges are opened (figure N).













- The vacuum pump is then turned on, and the gauges are checked for readings (figure O). The vacuum pump is left on, evacuating the system for 45 minutes. This removes any air and moisture from the system.













- Following the directions that came with the kit, the refrigerant is installed into the system using a can-tapper that punctures the outside of the aerosol canister (figure P). If you don't have a can-tapper, a special adapter will allow you to attach the gauge directly to the refrigerant canister.













- With the can tapped, the valves can be opened, allowing refrigerant to charge the system. Start the engine, and set the air-conditioning to maximum cooling.

-After the system has had a chance to charge, the temperature at the a/c vent is tested using a digital thermometer (figure Q).













- An ultraviolet light is used to check for any refrigerant leaks (figure R). Leaks would show up under the u/v light since leak-detection dye was introduced into the system earlier.













- A sticker placed on the new a/c system (figure S) would alert any repair techs later that the system contains leak detection dye. This knowledge could be used to diagnose any suspected leaks later on.













- Reinstall the grill-guard, hood, and any other parts that were removed for the installation.
 

Pictures

Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8
Picture 9
Picture 10
Picture 11
Picture 12
Picture 13
Picture 14
Picture 15
Picture 16
Picture 17
Picture 18
Picture 19

Click on the thumbnails to see larger images.

 

References

  • http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_auto_air_conditioning/article/0,2021,DIY_13674_2278232,00.html
    •  


    A/C Installation -- Introduction and Parts
    Model : Ford, Explorer Category : Engine - Cooling System
    ... with a series of pre-drilled holes down both sides for installation. Several mounting brackets (figure F) are included in the kit also. The brackets you use will depend on your vehicle. Check the directions that come with your kit to identify the proper mounts for your vehicle. [PICTUREID=7LEFT] The existing fan-guard on the truck will be replaced with a fan-shroud as part of the a/c ... (more)
    Posted : 16 November 2004 Author : From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-211
     
    A/C Installation -- Compressor and Blower-Motor
    Model : Ford, Explorer Category : Engine - Cooling System
    ... The replacement will include a new blower-box that includes an evaporator. In our case, we first had to unbolt and remove the vacuum solenoid (figure F) to gain access to the blower assembly. [PICTUREID=7LEFT] Next, disconnect the blower motor and remove it from the box (figure G). This part will be re-installed later, so it's a good idea to inspect it and clean it of any dirt or debris that ... (more)
    Posted : 16 November 2004 Author : From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-211
     
    A/C Installation -- Receiver-Dryer and Hoses
    Model : Ford, Explorer Category : Engine - Cooling System
    ... you will be using in your a/c-system. The same is true of the lubricant that is used in installing the O-rings. Check the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you are using the proper parts to prevent refrigerant leaks. [PICTUREID=6LEFT] Before making the final two connections to the receiver dryer, the capillary tube of the expansion valve (figure G) needs to be fastened properly. The ... (more)
    Posted : 16 November 2004 Author : From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-211
     
    Cooling fan manual switch install
    Model : Ford, Mustang Category : Engine - Cooling System
    ... spot, the connector has numbers for each pin. NOTES FOR 4.6L SOHC and DOHC Hook into pin#46 on the PCM, that is located behind the passenger side kickpanel. Once you tie into that pin all you do is run it to the toggle switch, and run the other side of the switch to ground. Next you will have to TAP a wire to #17, don't CUT THE #17 WIRE !!!, you could use a scotchlock connector to tap into it, ... (more)
    Posted : 19 May 2005  
     
    Griffin Radiator Install
    Model : Ford, Mustang Category : Engine - Cooling System
    ... not want to take the chance of damaging the AC line that runs directly above the radiator location. It was very easy with the car Jacked up and on jack stands. 8. Now remove the hoses from the thermostat housing and remove the two bolts holding the housing to the upper intake. Once this is done CLEAN the housing and the intake VERY well. I use a screwdriver to scratch most of the old gasket and ... (more)
    Posted : 19 May 2005  
     
    Browse by title :
    # | A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z
    Browse by make :
    A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | M | N | P | S | T | V