eMotors.ca and author of the article below cannot in any way be
held responsible nor liable for any of the content or for any use or misuse of
the information provided in the article. eMotors.ca and the author of the
article cannot guarantee the accuracy or correctness of the information
provided in the article, therefore, the information provided by the article can
only be used at your own risk.
|
|
|
A/C Installation -- Receiver-Dryer and Hoses
|
|
|
With the condenser and compressor installed, along with the blower-motor assembly, work can now begin on installing the receiver dryer and the a/c hoses.
Receiver Dryer and Hoses
Uncap the evaporator lines and install the expansion valve (figure A). This meters the amount of refrigerant that enters the evaporator core. For now, just test-fit the valve. It will need to be installed with O-rings later on.
Test-fit the receiver-dryer (figure B).
Important: The receiver-dryer is a directional device -- with an intake and an outflow connection -- so make sure that you check your instructions and install it in the proper orientation. Also, don't open the receiver dryer until you are ready to connect the associated hoses to it.
Next, uncap the compressor (figure C), and continue test-fitting by connecting the hoses according to the manufacturer's instructions.
One of the hoses attaches to the suction-side of the compressor, and is routed (in our case) around the battery to the evaporator. A second hose attaches to the other port of the compressor (figure D) and is routed down to the compressor. The compressor-end of the hose can be left unattached for now.
Another line goes from the expansion valve to the receiver-dryer (figure E). This line is easy to identify since it is the shortest hose in the kit.
The last hose connected leads from the receiver-dryer to the condenser.
Important: The hoses are connected using O-rings (figure F). It's important that the O-rings you use are compatible with the type of refrigerant you will be using in your a/c-system. The same is true of the lubricant that is used in installing the O-rings. Check the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you are using the proper parts to prevent refrigerant leaks.
Before making the final two connections to the receiver dryer, the capillary tube of the expansion valve (figure G) needs to be fastened properly. The coiled portion of this tube rests against the suction line and senses the temperature of the line. This, in turn, controls the opening and closing of the expansion valve.
Clip the capillary tube into position (figure H), and cover it with insulation tape to protect it from the heat of the engine.
Next, open the receiver-dryer and add some refrigerant-oil to it (figure I) according to your manufacturer's instructions. For our installation, we added some leak-detection dye as well. Later, the dye will serve to identify and trace any leaks that might occur.
Make the final two hose connections, securing the hoses onto the receiver dryer (figure J).
With the hoses all connected (figure K), some of the parts removed earlier can be installed before adding refrigerant to the system. If you end up having to re-route any parts or wiring harnesses to accommodate the new a/c system, try to stay as close as possible to the original factor routing.
Re-install the air-cleaner and solenoid (figure L).
Install the compressor belt and tighten down the tensioner (figure M).
Next, a stabilizing bracket is installed to the alternator bracket and the vehicle's engine (figure N). This bracket is designed to hold the components steady and prevent rattling.
Reinstall the fan-blade and the new fan-shroud (figure O). These two parts need to be installed at the same time. If the fan wer installed before the shroud, the new shroud wouldn't fit -- and vice versa.
|
|
Click on the thumbnails to see larger images.
|
|
|
|
|
A/C Installation -- Wiring and Refrigerant
|
|
Model : |
Ford, Explorer
|
Category : |
Engine - Cooling System
|
|
... The green a/c wire from our kit connects to the purple wire on this plug. A test-light is used in order to ensure that this wire is still functional (figure J). Since the test-light comes on when the a/c switch is turned on inside the cab, the wire is found to be OK. [PICTUREID=10LEFT] - The green a/c wire is connected to the factory-installed purple wire using a crimp connection (figure ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
16 November 2004
|
Author : |
From "Weekend Mechanic" - episode WKM-211
|
|
|
|
A/C Installation -- Introduction and Parts
|
|
Model : |
Ford, Explorer
|
Category : |
Engine - Cooling System
|
|
... with a series of pre-drilled holes down both sides for installation. Several mounting brackets (figure F) are included in the kit also. The brackets you use will depend on your vehicle. Check the directions that come with your kit to identify the proper mounts for your vehicle. [PICTUREID=7LEFT] The existing fan-guard on the truck will be replaced with a fan-shroud as part of the a/c ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
16 November 2004
|
Author : |
From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-211
|
|
|
|
A/C Installation -- Compressor and Blower-Motor
|
|
Model : |
Ford, Explorer
|
Category : |
Engine - Cooling System
|
|
... The replacement will include a new blower-box that includes an evaporator. In our case, we first had to unbolt and remove the vacuum solenoid (figure F) to gain access to the blower assembly. [PICTUREID=7LEFT] Next, disconnect the blower motor and remove it from the box (figure G). This part will be re-installed later, so it's a good idea to inspect it and clean it of any dirt or debris that ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
16 November 2004
|
Author : |
From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-211
|
|
|
|
Cooling fan manual switch install
|
|
Model : |
Ford, Mustang
|
Category : |
Engine - Cooling System
|
|
... spot, the connector has numbers for each pin. NOTES FOR 4.6L SOHC and DOHC Hook into pin#46 on the PCM, that is located behind the passenger side kickpanel. Once you tie into that pin all you do is run it to the toggle switch, and run the other side of the switch to ground. Next you will have to TAP a wire to #17, don't CUT THE #17 WIRE !!!, you could use a scotchlock connector to tap into it, ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
19 May 2005
|
|
|
|
|
Griffin Radiator Install
|
|
Model : |
Ford, Mustang
|
Category : |
Engine - Cooling System
|
|
... not want to take the chance of damaging the AC line that runs directly above the radiator location. It was very easy with the car Jacked up and on jack stands. 8. Now remove the hoses from the thermostat housing and remove the two bolts holding the housing to the upper intake. Once this is done CLEAN the housing and the intake VERY well. I use a screwdriver to scratch most of the old gasket and ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
19 May 2005
|
|
|
|
Browse by title :
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
Q
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
X
|
Y
|
Z
|
Browse by make :
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
S
|
T
|
V
|
|