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Subframe Mounts
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Author :
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Jeff Nord
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Posted on :
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03/12/2004
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Model :
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BMW, 5 - Series (E34) 1989-96
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Category :
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Suspension - Bushings
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Source :
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http://www.bmwe34.net
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Procedure and photos courtesy of Jeff Nord
Failure syndromes:
• Rear clunk noise when you disengage the clutch on an upshift / down shift; especially an upshift. when accelerating; the subframe is pulled away from the chasis via the wheel torque. when you push the clutch in, the subframe unloads and hits the chassis creating the thunk.
• The rear of the car feeling like it steers itself. Probably best to do the rear pitman arms first before the subframe bushings if you have a self steering rear. or, at least have them inspected. If the pitman arms are good then this means the bushings are soft. No real way to inspect the bushings visually. however, if you support the subframe, you can easily remove the arm covering the bushing and see how torn it is.
You will need some specific tools to do this repair. Parts cost = 2 x $40 for bushings. labor with puller and lift, no torn bushings is about 4 hours. Labor with a torn bushing (you can't use the puller then) can be upwards of a day - you have to cut the bushing out. to cut it out, you may have to remove the subframe.
Subframe mounts vs subframe bushings:
I just got the bad news that the part that I recieved from BMA was wrong!
I ordered the "bushings" instead of the "mounts".
The "bushings" are a horizontal item located on the subframe and the "mounts" are mounted vertically into the chassis.
So to make this easier for other people ( as well as cheaper, now I have to pay double bacause I can't wait for BMA)I'm giving you the part #'s for the job.
Patick @ BMA has told me that the "bushings" and the "mounts" are the same for "all" E34's.
Subframe "Mounts" # - 33-3-1-129-760 $25.00 ea.
For vertically mounting from subframe to chassis.
The picture on Bruno's site would be # 2
Subframe "Bushings" # - 33-17-1-131-903 $20.00 ea.
The picture on Bruno's site would be # 3
Even Patrick told me this can be a very confusing item for people to order, because BMW lists them both as "bushings", but as you get more into the ordering screen, it finally shows the correct one as being a "mount".
Take it from me, it just happened today.
Keith '95 540
Procedure
Floor lift preferable, jackstands, BMW Bushing Puller Tool
1. First, a nice shop with a lift helps. This is the shop of Dan Patzer, one of the Puget Sound chapter tech advisors. Dan will work with you side by side on car repairs. I enlisted Dan's help because of his extensive shop and bushing puller.
2,3. Car in the air, here's our target from below. The subframe bushing is located under the large nut on the right hand side of the picture. The bushing locates a 'pin' that goes thru the chasis and keeps the subframe in place. To do this repair, you need to work in both the car's cabin and from underneath. First, support the subrame with a 4x4 on a jack. Then, remove the arm in this picture (note: two 13mm mounting bolts are obscured in this picture).
4. This is in the cabin with the backseat removed. Underneath this tar patch is the bushing pin. Peel away this patch to access the pin. This patch is located near the seat belt buckle on the floor pan. You'll also need to remove the outboard rear clips for the seatbelts.
5. With the patch removed, you can see the top of the pin that locates the subframe. We are going to remove this pin.
6. Underneath again, subframe arm removed, you can see the actual subframe bushing. At this point, the subframe itself is being supported by a 4x4 post on a jack. The bolt in the center is the pin previously mentioned. You need to hammer the pin up and push it out of the bushing. Be ready to hit it hard. Don't mess up the threads! Put the nut on and hammer on a socket! Pin shown removed on the right.
7. By lowering the jack that was supporting the subframe, the subframe drops away from the chassis. You can see the space in the picture.
8. Using a special BMW tool, we'll now pull the bushing out of the housing. It's a tight, press fit. On the left is the tool partially setup. NOTE the puller's top plate in the space created by lowering the subrame? On the right is the tool installed and starting to pull the bushing out.
9. The bushing stretches as the puller digs in. We used a heat gun on the sides of the subframe to help loosen the bushing. On the right is the bushing coming out. Watch your toes - it will drop to the floor.
10. New and old bushing side by side
11. To install the new bushing, you reconfigure the BMW tool to press the new bushing in. Trim the excess rubber away.
We strongly recommend that you DO NOT lube the new bushing with undiluted detergent to aid the installation. Instead, we suggest only water or an extremely diluted detergent solution. Using too much detergent (lube) appears to cause the subframe to slip up the bushing when driving. The bushing / subframe connection appears to rely on friction and the detergent does not disipate enough leading to slippage.
12. Once the new bushing is installed, you have to replace the pin. Here's a shot of the pin and the hole in the cabin. Note the knurling in the pin. The pin is forced into the hole and the knurling holds it tight. Putting the pin back in, you will need to line up the new bushing below so you don't gouge the threads on the pin. Do this by carefully jacking up the subframe so the pin and the bushing line up. Firmly hammer the pin back into the chassis. Be careful not to mess up the threads! :)
13. Here's the new bushing and the pin replaced. At this point, replace the subframe arm, torque the bolts and then lower the jack supporting the subframe. Go do the other side.
Big thanks to Jeff Nord and Micah O'C
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Click on the thumbnails to see larger images.
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E30/E36/E46 Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99
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Category : |
Suspension - Bushings
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... control arm. Use an air body saw to cut through the outer ring of the bushing in two places, be careful to not cut in to the bracket... much. Use a hammer and chisel to collapse the outer ring and knock it out of the bracket. Admire your cuts in to the bracket, then get over it, doesn't really hurt anything... unless you cut all the way through the bracket! Align your new bushing in the ...
(more)
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Posted : |
26 October 2004
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Author : |
Chris
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BMW Thrust Arms
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Model : |
BMW, 5 - Series (E34) 1989-96
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Category : |
Suspension - Bushings
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... the 22mm nut and bolt attaching the thrust arm to the frame. Remove the thrust arm. 5. If the ball joint turns while tightening the nut, use vice grips or pliers to hold the bottom of the ball joint to the steering plate. Installation is reverse of removal but don't tighten the 22mm nut holding the arm to the frame all the way. You will need to lower the car to the ground to tighten the thrust ...
(more)
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Posted : |
3 December 2004
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Author : |
bmwe34.net
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Replacing BMW Shift Bushings
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99
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Category : |
Suspension - Bushings
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... (almost always heavily worn) Let's begin the renewal process by replacing each bushing, starting with the shifter arm bushing (sometimes called a carrier bushing) that attaches to the transmission. The old bushing is shown in Figure 17. Remove the old bushing by cutting it off with a razor blade or knife (Figure 18). The inside of the bushing may have some metal parts reinforcing it, so be ...
(more)
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Posted : |
18 May 2005
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BMW E30 3 Series Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E30) 1983-93
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Category : |
Suspension - Bushings
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... mind that you must jack the rear up from a good structural point on the car, such as a frame rail or a suspension carrier. Otherwise, you risk putting the jack right through the floor of the car. (I have seen this happen on a Porsche 914, and its not pretty). For those of you who are not familiar with jacking the car up, I highly recommend you read Waynes article on jacking up the E36. It does ...
(more)
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Posted : |
24 May 2005
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Front suspension tricks
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E30) 1983-93
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Category : |
Suspension - Bushings
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... front, but be aware there will be a loss of some of the predictability that we rely on when near the edge in a corner. The lower link bolts onto a hole in a re-inforced boss on the control arm. There are three holes cast into the arm for lightening, and you can, by hand, align the bolt to fit the next hole, thus stiffening the anti-roll. You should install some small washer to take up the ...
(more)
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Posted : |
24 May 2005
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