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"Nutsert" and X-brace Install
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I considered writing up a big page on how to install the entire X-brace but then it occurred to me that an excellent reference already exists and there is no point in rewriting it. I will simply add more information based on my experiences. The reference of which I speak is Ron Stygar's X-brace install which can be found at:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_rons_xbrace_install.html.
This page is mainly an effort to explain how you can install the BMW nutserts (Ron used a different brand) without having to purchase a special tool.
Now on to what I have to add. First lets have a little good news/bad news list. See which one applies to you.
1. If you have an M3 built after 10/94, the nutserts are preinstalled, all you have to do is remove the old brace and bolt on the X-brace. As far as I know, these are the only cars with preinstalled nutserts. Lucky you.
2. On my '94 325i (3/94 build) the holes in the subframe were already the correct size to accept the nutserts. Lucky me.
3. On my friend's '93 325is 2 of the holes were the right size but the other 2 were too small to accept the nutserts. These must be enlarged with a drill and then tapered with a countersink to accept the nutserts. You can find details about modifying the holes in Ron Stygar's instructions along with the sizes of the 2 drill bits that you will need.
4. Apparently most cars (not mine and M3s after 10/94) have have either 2 or all 4 holes that are too small and must be enlarged/tapered to accept the nutserts.
Now do you still want to know how to install the BMW nutserts without an insert tool? Sure you do. BTW, this is what I did and it worked for me, that doesn't necessarily mean it will work for you. Your results may vary and feel free to do it differently.
Hardware: (should be available at any local hardware store, I got them from ACE Hardware)
1 M8 hex head bolt that has threading all the way to the head. It should be at least 2-3 inches long. You might want to get an extra because when I did mine, I bent the bolt on the second nutsert. Those things need a LOT of torque.
2 4 M8 nuts. Again, you only use one at a time but I destroyed 2 in the process of installing my brace.
3-4 washers that fit the M8 bolt. You will use 2 at a time and will probably destroy one by the time you have done 2 nutserts.
You of course need the nutserts and mounting hardware for the brace but I'll assume you already have that. (the nutsert P/N is 51 71 8 175 003) If you need the other part numbers, check Ron's instructions.
Tools:
1xsocket wrench w/ 13mm socket and 17mm socket
1x13mm open end wrench (a long one if possible, this is where you need a lot of torque)
1xhacksaw (w/ blade for cutting metal)
1xtorque wrench that will read as low as 20 ft/lbs
Procedure:
First you will need to take one of your washers and use the hacksaw to cut lines across it about 1/2 way through the washer, as shown in the picture above. I did it w/ 3 cuts so there were 6 lines around the washer. Caution, it gets very hot! This is so this washer will grip the nutsert and the surrounding subframe and keep it from turning in the hole while you are compressing it.
Now you can assemble the nutsert tool shown in Picture 2. Put one nut on your long bolt so that it is pretty close to the head but far enough away that you can put the socket on the head of the bolt and still expose the nut so you can get to it with your wrench. Next put one of the uncut washers on the bolt. Then the cut washer so that the cuts face away from the other washer. Now screw the nutsert onto the bolt until it meets the cut washer.
Now its time to get under the car. I did it with my car on ramps, a lift would sure be nice though. :) Be sure to safely support the vehicle. I used ramps and wheel chocks and would use that as a minimum. It helps to take a wire brush and clean the subframe around and in the holes so that the nutsert will go in easier. (Picture 3 shows Tim and his '93 325is on my ramps)
Picture 4 shows a large undercar view of Tim installing a nutsert on his '93 325is. You can see the stock brace, the oil pan and the drivers side control arm as well as most of the subframe into which the nutserts are installed.
Picture 5 shows a closer view of the nutsert tool, the 13mm open end wrench (we used the one in the car's tool kit, you'll be happier if you find a bigger one), and the socket wrench (w/ 13mm socket).
Put the bolt into the hole until the nutsert is all the way in. Use the socket wrench with the 13 mm to hold the bolt so it doesn't turn. Then use the wrench to turn the nut clockwise (if you are upside down under the car looking up at the bolt in the hole). You must press up on the socket wrench head so that the nutsert is held tight into the hole. It will feel like the whole thing is turning at first but after a few turns it will start to grip. It takes a lot of torque to compress the nutsert so don't get discouraged. Once the nutsert starts to compress, it will stop turning and you will see that the cut washer isn't turning but the nut and the uncut washer are turning. If you are careful not to use too much torque and break the nutsert loose then you should be fine. I did have one start turning in the hole after it had begun to compress but I worked on it for a while and got it to compress more and it stopped turning.
I don't have a real scientific way to tell that the nutsert is compressed enough but eventually it will be even harder to turn more. So just use your judgement when to stop. Yes your hand will hurt from the wrench biting your palm. I took a break between nustserts to give my hand a rest. After you think it is in far enough then switch your socket to hold the other way and turn the nut the other way until it is loose. Then unscrew the bolt from the nutsert. Look inside the nutsert and note the distance from the outer edge to the threading. Compare this to the same space on an uncompressed nutsert. If you are satisfied, you can move on. If not, you can screw the bolt (w/ nut and washers) back on and torque it some more.
It is during this process that you will probably round off the nuts and mess up the washers. I also managed to bend the bolt. Before you move on, check the tool out. If the bolt is bent, use a different one. The washers are supposed to slide against each other so that one can turn the other will not, so if they are no longer smooth and don't look like they will slide against each other easily, replace them with your extras. (remember to cut the new washer if you have to replace the cut washer)
That's about it, just do this for each of the 4 nutserts. From there, you can follow Ron's instructions for installing the brace itself, but I will run through it real quick anyway.
After the nutserts are in you can remove the stock brace with a 17mm socket and use those bolts to mount the rear part of the x-brace. Just finger tighten for now. DO NOT remove the stock brace until you are sure you are ready to install the X-brace and the nutserts are in. If you for some reason have to move the car and there is no bar on their (either the stocker or the X-brace), you will never get the holes to line up again. BTW, there are reinforcement pieces for the rear 2 bolts on the brace but I don't have them so I can'y tell you much about them. Check Ron's page for that too. He has a diagram from the parts CD that shows them.
Next use the short M8 bolts that came with the brace to mount it in the front. There are washers on those bolts already but many places will send you extra washers when you order the mounting hardware. The bolts (w/ washer) go on one side of the x-brace and the other washers are just extra. The bolts didn't used to have the washers preinstalled so there were separate washers. Now the washers come on the bolts so you don't need the others. I think they still get sent to people because the old part numbers for the separate bolts/washers were not retired or something but I'm not sure.
Once the bolts are all in you can tighten them with a torque wrench. 19.9 ft/lbs for the 4 M8 bolts in front, 51.6 ft/lbs for the 2 rear M10 bolts.
Finally, your X-brace is on the car and you can go for a drive. Have fun.
If any of this process seems unclear or you have specific questions or you have suggestions on how I can make this page more helpful, please e-mail me (kc@kcbraunschweig.com). If you are in the Columbia, Missouri area (or the Los Angeles area during the school year), I can even give you a hand with it.
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Click on the thumbnails to see larger images.
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X-Brace Installation Hints
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99
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Category : |
Suspension - Other
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... to get the sert all the way in so the strap is against the crossmember. 12 - If you have one, use an impact wrench to tighten the bolt initially, which will swell the nutsert against the inside of the hole in the crossmember. If you don't have an impact wrench, use a ratchet, but make the first few tightening strokes very quick (jerk the handle briskly) to prevent slipping of the sert against ...
(more)
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Posted : |
14 May 2004
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Author : |
Don Wentz
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X-Brace Install
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Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99
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Category : |
Suspension - Other
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... between them, put a couple of drops of Lock-Tite Red on the threads at the end of the bolt and then thread on a nusert with the wide end facing the washers. Let the Lock-Tite harden for about a minute. Clean out the hole for the nutsert in the crossmember, you might have to drill the hole out with a 7/16" drill bit or you might just be able to scrape away the gunk out the holes with an ...
(more)
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Posted : |
26 October 2004
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Author : |
Chris
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BMW Control arms
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Model : |
BMW, 5 - Series (E34) 1989-96
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Category : |
Suspension - Other
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... E34, support with jacks and remove the wheel. 2. Remove the 3 bottom bolts holding the strut assembly. You can remove the control arm without removing the whole strut assembly. 3. Break the two 19mm nut on the ball joint and on the bushing side. 4. Use a pickle fork (actually works fine) to remove the ball joint or a tie-rod puller (much better). 5. Undo the 22mm nut and bolt attaching the ...
(more)
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Posted : |
3 December 2004
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Author : |
bmwe34.net
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