eMotors.ca and author of the article below cannot in any way be
held responsible nor liable for any of the content or for any use or misuse of
the information provided in the article. eMotors.ca and the author of the
article cannot guarantee the accuracy or correctness of the information
provided in the article, therefore, the information provided by the article can
only be used at your own risk.
|
|
|
Complete Oil Pump Nut write up
|
|
|
Many of you out here were like me a one time. "What is this oil pump nut issue. And...should I be concerned?"
Well, the short answer is YES.
Here's the deal. The oil pump to the E36 M3 is located in oil pan area and is bolted to block. The pump is chain driven off the crank. The sprocket that drives the pump is held on the pump shaft by a single 4mm thick reverse threaded nut. Under certain conditions, this nut WILL back off. There are many conditions out there that are suspect, but simply put the nut will eventually back off.
Now onto my car. I have a 1998 M3 coupe with 59K on the ticker. One would think "hey...no worries." Boy was I mistaken. Upon opening the oil pan, etc...the nut WAS in fact loose. Not only loose, but fell off in my hand when I touched it.
So in order to help those out there who have questions, I have decided to take the time and do a complete writeup.
Now...my disclaimer. I am doing this as one enthusiast to another. If you have problems changing oil or even tires, DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROJECT. I will not be held responsible for someone not referring to a qualified mechanic first or even a proper service manual. More: This is NOT a guarranteed fix. Short of spot welding the nut, this appears to be my preferred method to solve this issue. We'll see if it works.
Onto the chore at hand. Plan on 7-8 hours (taking your time)
Tools needed:
Screw drivers (flat and philips)
Misc metric sockets (deep and shallow)
Torque wrench (capable of light loads)
Torque wrench (capable of heavier settings)
wire for temporary hanging of components
Oil & filter
Power steering fluid (I use Mobil 1 ATF)
Engine hoist / brace
Eye protection
A Punch
Hammer
Bentley Manual or equivalent <--You need one, get it.
Parts:
High temp Loctite
Gasktet Sealer - Permatex High temp Black
Oil Dipstick O-ring
Oil Pan gasket
New Oil pump nut
Step 1: Disconnect the battery and securely place the vehicle on stands. I personally recommend the highest yet safest height you can go. The more room you have, the easier it will be to move around. Remove the front wheels / tires. (Note: I removed all my wheels due to time for a rotation.)
Step 2: Once the vehicle is safe, get under neath and remove the underpan and "porkchops". Next, get a good look at the components under the engine. Note the sway bar, crossmember, steering rack, and the power steering lines from the resevoir.
Step 3: Let's begin. Drain all the oil and replace the filter. (Now's a great time.) Note: Get as much oil out as you can. It's going to be messy.
Step 4: If you have an X-Brace, now is the time to remove it.
Step 5: Find the oil dipstick (Located on the right rear of the engine. Red loop for a handle. Unbolt it (on the intake manifold) and gently pull the dipstick tube out. Be gentle!! There is a breather hose attached to the assembly and it will not come out all the way.
Edit: Step 5.5: Find the droplinks that connect the front swaybar. Disconnect the bolts from the top that attach to the strut (these are easier to get to). Next remove the chassis supports and remove the bar.
Step 6: Disconnect the primary belt that drives the power steering pump and alternator. Side note: tuck the belt aside. It will be in your way later.
Step 7: Unless you have room to get to the Power steering fluid resevoir, remove your intake and filter assembly. And...then, with a clean syringe remove as much of the power steering fluid as you can. DO NOT REUSE IT!!
Step 8: Unbolt the Power steering pump and wire tie it to the radiator support beam or the engine brace (engine brace worked well for me.) Side note: you may have to remove the pulley for easy access. (see pic)
Step 9: Attached your engine brace / hoist to the engine lift point next to the oil filter. Now gently lift the engine approx 1/4" up. (see pic: hook is in center of pic)
Step 10: Working under the car, seperate the steering column shaft from the rack at the universal joint. BEFORE YOU DO THIS MARK THE SHAFTS' LOCATION!!!
Step 11: With a jack, support the crossmember frame under the car and remove the 2 - 18mm bolts on each side.
Step 12: Remove the nuts on the engine mounts and gently lower the crossmember about 1/2".
Step 13: Slowly disconnect the line from the Power Steering Resevoir to the Rack. NOTE: HAVE EYE PROTECTION WHEN YOU DO THIS. Fluid WILL dump on you. Drain of the access and plug the line from the rack. (see pic, hose in on the right)
Step 14: Continue lowering the crossmember as far as it can go. Be gentle, the ball joints will be extended at this point. (see pic)
Step 15: Remove the three bolts at the back of the oil pan. These join the oil pan to the transmission case. Note: These may be tight. Be careful.
Step 16: Remove the oil pan bolts. Note: there are two hidden ones at the back of the pan. Look for two holes right next to it.
Step 17: Once ALL bolts are removed, gently lower the pan, pulling it towards the rear of the car. If it doesn't want to move, use a rubber mallett to gently POP the gasket. Be gentle and note the location of the oil pickup and the oil pump sprocket near the front. (see pic)
There you go!! You got the whole assembly off.
Step: 18: Inspect the oil pump nut. Is it loose? Remove the nut. Note: it has left handed threads.
Step 19: Clean the threads and the sprocket, removing all oil residue. CLEAN THOROUGHLY!.
Step 20: Place a drop or two of High Temp Loctite inside the threads of the nut and tighten to 18ft-lbs.
Step 21: Take your punch and place the point right on the nut and shaft's threads. Note that the metal is quite soft and it won't take much of a whack to deform the threads. Side note: I did mine in 2 locations just for piece of mind. (See pic)
Step 22: Installation of the pan is the reverse. However, be sure to clean the gasket surface and use the Permatex gasket sealer on the corners of the oil pan. Next, when reinstalling the oil pan torque the bolts moving front to back.
That's all. My only advice is to take your time and look up the appropriate torque specs on all nuts and bolts. It's not a bad job, just time consuming.
I hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to PM or email me anytime.
Good luck.
Chad A.
Comments:
Step 7/13 You don't really need to disconnnect the line(s) from the power steering reservoir. I found it easier to just unbolt the reservoir from its mounting location; that way, no fluid mess and you don't need to worry about putting pressure on the power steering lines and fittings (the whole reservoir can be dropped down with the subframe once it's unbolted).
Step 8 If you leave the top, outboard bolt engaged, but loosened a bit, you can just swing the power steering pump out of the way when removing the oil pan. This will save you the trouble of "wiring" the pump.
|
|
Click on the thumbnails to see larger images.
|
|
|
|
|
Changing Your Engine Oil
|
|
Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99
|
Category : |
Engine - Lubrification
|
|
... found that I let this take about 20-30 minutes for the oil to fully drain out. You will have to remove the jack stand while the oil is draining otherwise all of the oil may not drain out of the oil pan. Step 11. While the oil is draining, remove the oil filler cap. This will allow air into the oil reservoir and let it flow freer. Time Check: 0 hrs, 15 min Step 12. Now would be a good time to ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
27 October 2004
|
Author : |
Baden Smith
|
|
|
|
M44 Aluminum oil filter cover with pressure port
|
|
Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E36) 1991-99, 318i
|
Category : |
Engine - Lubrification
|
|
O.E.M. oil filter housing cover, cast in aluminum with a threaded receptacle for an oil pressure gauge. It was included as standard equipment on the special edition E36 318is Class ll Motorsport Edition (homologated for the touring car championships). It was also an option in Europe for the E36 with M42 and M44 engines. Great for the street and track.
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
26 November 2004
|
Author : |
eMotors.ca Inc
|
|
|
|
Oil Change
|
|
Model : |
BMW, 5 - Series (E34) 1989-96
|
Category : |
Engine - Lubrification
|
|
... then loosen it by turning clockwise. Wipe the oil filter mounting, lubricate the new filter gasket with some fresh oil. Install filter by hand until gasket in contact with flange then turn the filter another 1/2 turn. Other engines: Loosen oil filter cover, prepare lots of rags around the filter housing. Remove the old filter and install the new one. Remove old O'rings and replace them with the ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
3 December 2004
|
Author : |
bmwe34.net
|
|
|
|
Oil And Filter Change
|
|
Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E46) 1998+
|
Category : |
Engine - Lubrification
|
|
... to the filter before I pull it out of the case. Once you have your bag ready pull the filter out of the case. Old Oil Filter Step 6: Cleaning Up Part I Its probably a good idea to wipe up the old, dirty oil out of the filter housing after the filter is removed. I use a shop towel to soak up the old oil and wipe out the rest of the case. I'm never shoot for spotless, just relatively clean. ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
14 May 2005
|
|
|
|
|
Oil And Filter Change
|
|
Model : |
BMW, 3 - Series (E46) 1998+
|
Category : |
Engine - Lubrification
|
|
... plug. BE CAREFUL - The oil can be hot and scald skin. 12. When the oil has completely drained from the engine (flow has slowed to an occasional drip), replace the drain plug using the new gasket from the kit and tighten to 18 ft/lbs of torque. DO NOT over-tighten. If you're not careful, you can strip the oil pan and/or break off the drain plug. No fun! 13. Open the oil fill cap and add 6.5 ...
(more)
|
|
Posted : |
14 May 2005
|
|
|
|
Browse by title :
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
Q
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
X
|
Y
|
Z
|
Browse by make :
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
S
|
T
|
V
|
|