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This write-up explains how to REPLACE the guibo, not how to check it. You can climb under the car and look at it if you want to check it. If it looks
First off, this is a VERY DIFFICULT job to do if you are alone. It is advisable to have at least 2 people doing this, especially when you have to take off the exhaust. It is possible to have one person doing this, but prepare for a lot of pain and suffering.
Estimated Time: 6 Hours
A friend and I did this in 6 hours with the use of jack stands.
STEP ONE:
Jack up the car, place on jack stands enough so you can easily remove bolts, pretty much have about 2 feet from the exhaust pipes to the ground. (It would make this job VERY easy if you had access to a lift.) The whole car needs to be in the air.
STEP TWO:
Gather the necessary tools (I may not mention all of the needed tools; I did this a long time ago.)
• Assortment of wrenches (sizes 6 mm to 18mm)
• Sockets in same sizes help a lot (13mm is almost a MUST)
• Trouble Light / Work light
• Portable jack, (floor jack is recommended, used for tranny)
• If the car is on jack stands, you will need a creeper, or you can crawl on your back if you want to…
• Mechanics rags / cloths. Comes in handy, especially with my car, had a LOT of grease and dust.
• Lots of “refreshments” (beer).
• Can of WD-40, used in loosening rusted bolts and screws.
• You must keep the old bolts from the guibo!
STEP THREE:
The actual disassemble:
Before I go into the exhaust, you should know what it contains. In the E30 325i, the exhaust system is broken into three parts. The manifold, Part A, the pipes and cat, Part B, and the Muffler with a small section of piping that is before it, Part C.
1. Disconnect the O2 sensor, you don’t have to take it out, just be careful with it still in there
2. Open the hood and remove the bolts from the header/manifold that connects it to the pipes. This is where two people are beneficial; one loosening and the other holding from below.
3. Now, while holding Part B, locate all of the mounts for Part B and take them down / unscrew them. Make sure the catalytic converter doesn’t touch the concrete, I don’t know why it shouldn’t, but it can’t.
4. Part C can stay up on the car, but the first rubber mount that holds Part C on might have to be undone.
5. All the rubber mounts are is a donut-shaped rubber ring that has a metal hook that goes into the loop. It’s a simple hold, and it does its job.
6. Once Part B is down and out of the way, check a few things. How does the inside of the pipes that connect to Part C look? Are they black to the touch or are they clean?
7. Check out your pipes exterior. It is okay for a little rust, but not enough to eat away the surface down.
STEP FOUR:
Next up is the heat shields. There are three sections I THINK, that are bolted up to the underbody. I believe, don’t quote me on this, but I think that they are 13 mm.
1. Locate the bolts that hold the heat shields on. The heat shields are concaved up, DIRECTLY above where the pipes were and where the pipes will go back to when finished. You must start from the rear of the car at the last heat shield and move forward, since they all tie into each other starting from the back.
2. Once the heat shields are down, I recommend cleaning and putting a sealant or something on them so they don’t rust, because if they rust, the driveshaft center bearing will start to rust and that’s not good.
3. There you have it, the driveshaft. It is nothing special, but it takes a shit load of work to get to it.
STEP FIVE:
Take a break!!! You have done the hard part, and now its time to replace the lost fluids by having a beer!
STEP SIX:
Now that you’re at the driveshaft, check it out. Grab a hold of it and shake it up and down. There should be some play, maybe a couple of inches. That play is coming from the center bearing rubber mount, it allows the passengers not to feel what’s going on with the drive train while you’re driving. Check the bolts on the center bearing. Tighten if loose. Now you should be able to see the guibo. It connects the transmission to the driveshaft. All it is a rubber piece that absorbs shock from the transmission, so that all jumps and jitters are unknown to the driver. I think that it is a piece of junk and it shouldn’t be there but, I have yet to find a replacement metal piece. While unscrewing the bolts and screws in the next step, it is perfectly fine to rotate the driveshaft to make it easier to loosen bolts. Make sure that you e-brake the car or something, cause when you crank on the shaft when its free, you’ll get a sour surprise.
1. Locate the four bolts that go through the transmission output shaft, into the guibo, and into the driveshaft input. They will be torqued to beyond belief, so it is a bitch to loosen them. Have fun loosening them. (This will be easier to do if the tranny bracket is still attached to the car!)
2. Time to get out the old floor jack and put it under the rear transmission bracket. Raise it up so that it is just touching the bracket, and then loosen the rear bracket from the car. The tranny will then sit down on the jack. TIP: DO NOT MOVE THE FLOOR JACK OR LET ANYONE BUMP IT. IF THE TRANNY FALLS, YOU CAN EXPECT REALLY SCREWED UP RESULTS ON YOUR ENGINE MOUNTS.
3. Lower the rear end of the tranny about 2 inches and it is a good idea to put some kind of safety thing under the tranny, like a piece of wood. Not crucial, just a good idea if the floor jack isn’t up to par.
4. Slide back to the end of the driveshaft and loosen those bolts. Mine were rusty, so the WD-40 and a bottle of acid from Master Lube came in handy.
5. Take the bolts that went through the guibo out completely and have something or someone there to hold the shaft up so that it doesn’t bend the U-Joints. Take out the bolts that hold the center bearing and let it drop. This is a VERY fragile piece; don’t let it bend TOO much.
6. Along with the bolts in the guibo, there is a center rod that goes into the driveshaft that skewers the guibo in the middle. Its only about three inches long, and with a little wiggling, the whole shaft should come off of the tranny and guibo.
7. Take out the old guibo and check it out. Does it have cracks or tears in it? In a guibo that was in NEAR-FATAL condition, like mine was, the metal holes will be touching, rips throughout, if yours is like this, consider yourself lucky that it didn’t completely fail!
8. Bring out the new guibo and slide it onto the driveshaft, then the whole assembly onto the tranny.
9. Re tighten all of the bolts, lock-tight the ones that are connected to the driveshaft and retighten the center bearing bolts.
Right behind the center bearing, you might see some splines that go into the driveshaft. This is normal, it allows the car to compress and extend a little without breaking the shaft like a twig.
STEP SEVEN:
Take another break. All that is left is the reassembly. This is the easy part, since you already know where everything goes. I sure hope that this write-up becomes a sticky; I don’t want to type it again!
STEP EIGHT:
Verify the bolts on all of the components that you just tightened. Re-tighten any that are loose. Rotate the shaft two full turns and then check the tightness. If they are all tight, go to step nine.
STEP NINE:
1. Figure out which heat shields go where and re-attach them to the car. This should be an easy step, if you have all the original hardware.
2. Verify that everything you took off is back on, minus the exhaust system and that junk.
STEP TEN:
Have someone help you with this step; it is tough; putting back on the exhaust.
1. Feed Part B, (remember Part B??? Look above for the explanation of Part B.) Feed Part B up into the engine compartment just like you took it down and before tightening it up in the engine bay, replace the donut and shaft back into the pipes, if you have them, and keep those together.
2. Tighten down the bolts from Part A to Part B and then do Part B to Part C.
3. Re-attach all the brackets and hangers that you took off when tearing it apart and verify the connection between them.
4. Hook back up the oxygen sensor.
STEP ELEVEN:
Lower the car and move everything from the rear of it. Its time to test drive.
Now it is time to check out your handiwork. Start up the car and if it runs normally then you hooked up the O2 sensor right.
If the exhaust is the same noise, then that’s good too. Put it into gear, or let the clutch out slowly. Everything feel normal? It should.
If everything feels fine from here, back her out and drive it. Is the vibration gone? Is there still vibration? The guibo should be able to last a good 10 years if driven nicely, maybe 5 if driven hard. I had the original guibo in mine and it lasted 14 years! No wonder it was a fatal part. Anyway, I hope your car runs better, since it’s a BMW, you should be living it up, so HAVE FUN!
EXTENDED:
If you’re still having vibration or other problems, read through this again and double check every step. If there are still problems, I’m sorry, but I can’t help you. I’m sure that there is someone out there to help you.
Have a great day and enjoy driving your ultimate driving machine!
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... the lower shock bolt, you should be able to sneak the axle out. Now it's time to remove the rear diff assembly. First, disconnect the speedometer pulse sensor connector. Remove the two rearmost 19mm bolts on top of the diff with a combination wrench: Support the diff with a floor jack. Next, remove the front two 19mm bolts: Finally remove the nut and bolt for the diff bushing using a ...
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